Attendees:

Members: Andy Lew, Paul Lonsdale, Olly Duncan
Prospectives: Tall Paul, Aaron Polly, Frankie Jackson, Alex Dato

All attendees met at midday. Energy levels and enthusiasm were high, which I credit to the 12pm start and the fact that I under sold the extra time & distance the approach would require on a hot, sunny day in August. Luckily for us all, we found the path of least resistance up to the crag - yet it was still no pushover in the heat - with some in the group finishing off most of their water supplies before we’d even got to it.

It was the first time a lot of us had climbed at Shining Clough (excluding short Paul & Olly). Tall Paul could barely contain his delight when he looked up at Phoenix Buttress and saw East Rib, the route on the cover of his Western Grit, which he declared with much excitement, he couldn’t wait to climb (so much excitement in fact, you might want to think twice before borrowing his guidebook next time you’re out with him).

We started the day climbing on Phoenix Buttress. Paul L and Alex got on Atherton Brothers [S 4a**]. Aaron cut the tags off his set of shiny new Friends and led Phoenix Climb [VS 4c***] with Frankie & Olly. Myself and Tall P scrambled up to East Rib [HVS 5a***] and Tall P began the meet on an absolute high, getting to lead the aforementioned cover route. I was last up the buttress and was shocked to find several of the attendees basking topless in the glorious sunshine - I must’ve taken longer seconding than I realised!

Next, I led Phoenix Climb, which suspiciously had a shiny new red cam wedged in a crack that would’ve been better suited to a green cam (it was later rescued by Olly). There was also a shiny new nut further up the route that didn’t look so shiny after Tall Paul had hammered it out! Olly led Pisa Direct [HVS 5a**] with Frankie & Aaron, whilst Paul led Main Wall Climb [VD*] on the Lower Tier with Alex.

Tall Paul then cruised up Galileo E1 5c** making it look easy, it was definitely the performance of the day. Myself & Frankie both made a valiant attempt to second it but were bested by the “easier” of the two finger cracks, so Olly seconded it to retrieve the gear. Alex led the the super classic, Via Principia [S 4a***] with Paul L.

Aaron led East Rib with Frankie & Olly and I led another classic, Pisa Super Direct [HVS 5a***]. It nearly didn’t happen for me, as I found the first move off the ground to be my crux and would have given up if it hadn’t been for the encouragement from Tall Paul. Paul L led Original Route [S 4b*] with Alex. The last route of the day was climbed by Frankie, as Olly & Aaron coached him up The Rainbow [Diff*], successfully sending his first ever trad lead and setting up his first trad anchor at the top as well. Great stuff!

Everyone decided to call it a day around 5:30pm, as a lot of people had run out of water & snacks. We didn’t quite get the rare golden light I’d promised in the end as the clouds had rolled in, but they didn’t cast a shadow over what was still a fantastic day. The good spirits and chat kept coming all the way back down to the car park.

UPDATE - 20/07

If the weather stays as it is (& that's a big IF), then this is not to be missed!

"Ideal conditions are warm summer days after a dry spell, when the place can be enjoyed to the full. On late summer evenings the cliff gets its annual dose of sunshine and climbing up here under these rare conditions is magical."

This meet will be aiming to catch that rare magic, meaning it will be an afternoon/late evening meet, starting 12pm at Torside Car Park - Peak District NP.

So have a lie-in, enjoy a spot of brunch, do whatever needs to be done and then join me for a climb on one of the best cliffs in the Peak District.

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This meet is open to all members and non-members.

Perched impressively above Woodhead Resevoir on the edge of Bleaklow, this is a crag etched in KMC history -  featuring first ascents dating back to the late 1940s. Come test your mettle against some the original pioneers of our club!

Rockfax states there's 13 routes up to the grade of VD, 11 Severes, 3 HSs, 13 VSs, 11 HVSs & 16 E1-6s including some of the best VSs and HVSs the Peak has to offer.

The approach is fairly long and can take anywhere up to an hour. If the parking is full at the western end of Woodhead Resevoir, there is alternative parking at the other end near the site of Woodhead Railway Station. 

I will be arriving at the main parking from 10am and heading up promptly.

This meet has known to be quite midgey in the past, so if there's little wind, ample protection in sprays, nets and appropriate layers is recommended - fingers crossed it won't come to that.